Tuesday, May 29, 2012
I set up the tent to open on the drivers side and with the drop-side down there is access to the bed of the truck through the ground tent. Really happy with the quality of the TJM Yulara tent. The vestibule is a bit more work to set up but has a lot of storage space on the floor, making more room for sleeping on the cargo platform of the truck itself.
Monday, April 16, 2012
Sunday, October 2, 2011
Saturday, February 19, 2011
Saturday, December 18, 2010
Friday, December 17, 2010
Bought an LED light bar to serve as a third brake light. Third brake light wire runs behind the gates top (at bottom of photo) wooden slat. I routed a channel on the back side of the slat from the brake light to the hinged upright on the driver side. The wire runs along the route and exits at a hole drilled behind the upright, then down to the hinge where another hole was drilled through to access the vehicle wiring behind the drivers side tail light. At some point, I'm going to redrill the hole at the centre of the hinge so the wire won't be exposed at all. Finished by tapping onto the (black and red) wire at the tail light plug and it's good to go.
(note: a bit of a screw up resulted in to me having to separately ground the rear drop-side. The wire can be seen at far left in top photo. Initially, I was hoping that the new light would ground through the drop-side hinges. This didn't work because the drop-sides, when closed, sit up on rubber bumpers built into the drop-side hinges. These bumpers are designed to prevent rattling and also unfortunately serve to insulate the drop sides, preventing a good ground.)
Go Westy kit contents:
Sunday, August 8, 2010
I picked up a front table bracket from the same van at the wreckers and had it powdercoated. Now we can use a table from my westy in the doka when we stop for lunch.
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Thursday, July 8, 2010
Saturday, June 5, 2010
Rebuilt handle after 2 coats of latex dip:
First Step: two of the latches; one with plastic handle removed to expose the rust:
Sunday, May 23, 2010
The door-step in place:
Rust repair welded in on passenger side b piller with a couple of patches bonded over top with 3M autobody adhesive. I'll add body filler to fair this in:
Panels replaced and filler added. The other side looks pretty much the same. Tons of sanding to do:
Saturday, May 1, 2010
I rolled the aluminium/rubber on with a large spark plug socket and sealed some of the edges with aluminium roofing tape. The butyl rubber compound won't off-gas and so I didn't worry about sealing all of the edges. Also, as the intent is only to prevent a harmonic resonance, there is no need to cover the entire surface with this material. The reflectix and acoustic foam will provide thermal insulation and attenuate reflected sound. As well, I pulled the bench seat out and cut some heavy rubber to cover the cab floor. It will be under the stock matting.
I ended up insulating all 3 of the cab doors as well as the floor, bulkhead behind the rear bench seat and driver rear side of the cab. Eventually, I'll pull the dash and do that area as well.
Wednesday, April 14, 2010
The bottom of the step. The replacement step has the holes that VW uses to anchor the plastic step pad. They are the problem source of moisture which caused all the rust in the first place, so I'm going to seal them and do away with the step pads completely.
I've just used some slugs from an electrical junction box to seal the holes. With a bit of shaping, the slugs were worked to conform to the curved surface a bit better. I tack welded them in place, then sealed the edges with JB weld and used the All Metal filler to fill the depression on the other side. Once they are in place, I'll spray some rubberized rockerguard in place of the step pad to provide a bit of grip and sound deadening.